A way with curds
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The women behind the wheels: Carla Meurs, Julie Cameron, Mary Mooney, Ann-Marie Monda, Ferial Zekiman and Victoria McClurg.
Photo: Simon Schluter
Women are making their wheels of fortune and dominating the cheese making industry, writes Richard Cornish.
RAY MILLS is the only bloke working at the Maffra Cheese Company. He's out the back packing cheese into boxes bound nationwide and around the globe. Other jobs, such as cutting the curd and wrapping the washed-rind cheeses are handled by his 11 female co-workers. They refer to him as "the rose between the thorns".
Mills is not the only lone male in our cheese industry. In bigger factories, female workers outnumber men three to two. In the smaller artisan and farmhouse cheeseries, the ratio is more likely to be four to one. In fact, some of the nation's best cheeses are either made by women, made in factories owned by women, or were started by women. Meredith Dairy, Holy Goat, Yarra Valley Dairy, Ashgrove Cheese, Kervella, Barossa Valley Cheese Company, Indigo Cheese Company, Woodside Cheese Wrights, Hunter Belle and Grandvewe are all cheese companies in which females have ruled the roost.
So why do the sheilas outnumber the blokes in one of the most exciting local food industries?
Cheesemaker Julie Cameron from Meredith Dairy has given cheese and gender much thought since she and her husband Sandy returned to his 1220-hectare family farm at Meredith, near Ballarat, almost 20 years ago. There she makes the cheese and he looks after the 800 sheep and 1200 goats they milk each day.
"Farmhouse cheeses are made on the farm where the animals are milked," explains Cameron. "And traditionally, the best cheeses were always made by women. For health and safety reasons, you wanted the person who worked the fields and milked the animals to be as far away from the cheese making as possible, due to the bacterial spores in the dirt and grass," she says. "So the men looked after the cows and the women made the cheese. Simple."
Cameron employs 24 staff, 19 of whom are women. They make yoghurt, fetta, chevre, white-mould brie-style ewe's milk cheese, ashed pyramids of goat cheese, blue ewe's milk cheese and a highly successful marinated goat's cheese in olive oil. The amount of handwork can be measured in tens of thousands of (wo)man-hours - with little room for error.
"Women are pedantic. They are really fussy about making sure the right amount of curd goes in the hoops, making sure the jars of cheese are properly filled, that the cheeses are perfectly wrapped," Cameron says.
Owner and cheesemaker at Maffra Cheese Company, Ferial Zekiman, concurs. A graceful grandmother of four, she gave up a successful career as a retail pharmacist to take on the long hours and hard work of a cheesemaker.
"When my children were young, my grandmother came over from the Turkish north of Cyprus and lived with us," she says. "I would buy 20 litres of milk at a time for her to make haloumi in the stove top. I learned from her."
Slightly closer to Melbourne is Yarra Valley Dairy, now an iconic brand and one of the region's strongest non-cellar door drawcards. Back in the early '90s, Mary Mooney didn't see much of a future just milking the family's herd of cows and receiving whatever price the big companies dictated.
"We were struggling so we needed to add value to what we were producing on the farm," she says. At that time, wine tourism was just starting to really kick in with big companies including Mildara Blass (now Foster's) and Domaine Chandon was setting up shop just down the road.
"I saw a parallel. We have milk just as wineries have grape juice," says Mooney. With the help of Australia's industry renaissance cheesemaker Richard Thomas, who worked with them for 12 months, the Mooneys started making cheese in their renovated 100-year-old dairy. Mooney, an accomplished sculptor, saw the opportunity for the family farming business to be more than just a price taker.
Yarra Valley Dairy now has 22 employees who produce 100 tonnes of cheese annually. It is sold across Australia and it has begun exporting.
In another wine tourism region, South Australia's Barossa Valley, Victoria McClurg processes 4000 litres of cows' and goats' milk each week at her Angaston factory. She started the Barossa Valley Cheese Company several years ago with her mother and specialises in soft and delicate brie and camembert-style cheeses and washed-rind cheeses such as Le Petit Prince. "Females are more delicate," says McClurg. "You can't be rough with our cheeses.
''Imagine running a washing-up brush over a custard skin - the skin on our cheeses is that easy to tear."
She compares the process of cutting the curd to ballet - when two people run frames strung with wire through great tubs of junket-like curd, each person in unison with the other. "Women take their time and discuss each stage of the production and talk about what is going on - it's co-operative and no one is trying to be a hero."
Out in the bush near Castlemaine, Ann-Marie Monda and partner Carla Meurs milk 55 goats on their 80-hectare organic property at Sutton Grange. Here they make nine tonnes of French-style goats' cheese annually. They trained under cheese industry pioneer Gabrielle Kervella in Western Australia, considered by many to be Australia's first great lady of cheese. They embarked on a European tour of cheese discovery and education before returning to Australia to spend years searching for a property to start their own goat farm. They bought their dry-land farm with surrounding bushland in 1999 and sold their first cheeses in 2003.
"Women can understand the personality of animals better than men do," she says. They have a strong bond with their animals that goes beyond concepts of ownership.
"You never want to distance yourself from the animals. You take their milk, you turn it into cheese and you sell it. Ours is not an exploitative relationship. We look after the goats and they look after us. We just know by looking at the behaviour of the goats how their milk is going to be."
One of the leading males in the cheesemaking game is David Brown from Milawa Cheese, also president of the Australian Specialty Cheesemakers' Association. He is known as a man who doesn't mince his words: "Women are bloody good cheesemakers," he says. "I'll put this very simply. Making cheese requires patience. Women are patient." He also says that behind many great male cheesemakers is a woman, either doing the books or marketing.
Back at Maffra Cheese, by the banks of Boggy Creek, Zekiman walks us through her cool room, where 80 tonnes of Maffra Cloth Bound Cheddar matures on the shelves. Here it slowly develops its nutty flavour and firm texture. These are the cheeses that are earning Maffra the reputation as one of the best consistent manufacturers in the nation. Some of the cheeses bear batch numbers dating back to 2006. More than $1.2 million worth of expenses are tied up in these cheeses: labour, electricity, feed for the cattle, fencing and other costs. "This is the stuff that sends you broke," she says with a dismissive laugh.
A change in Zekiman's personal circumstances saw her left with 300 hectares of fertile flat floodplain in the Macalister Irrigation District and a herd of cows. Overnight the chemist had to become a dairy farmer. She now believes it was her destiny.
"I knew I had to make more money out of the farm. I committed myself to becoming a cheesemaker. In my culture we call it kismet."
The 12th annual Melbourne Specialist Cheese Show will be held on Sunday, August 17 at Crown.