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Author Topic: Any Geese Raisers in the RP & Introduction to Raising Geese:  (Read 2930 times)
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mikey
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« on: January 04, 2009, 11:03:43 AM »

Anyone raising geese in the Philippines?

Introduction to goose production
To date, goose production has been mainly a sideline. Since there are no accurate statistics for New South Wales, it is difficult to estimate the percentage of geese in poultry numbers, but it would only be a fraction of 1%. This has meant that, so far, little effort has been made to improve the strains of geese in relation to their genetic capabilities. In the near future, breeders and producers are likely to take a more technical approach to goose production, paying greater attention to breeding, feeding and general management.

Geese are not prolific egg producers, laying only 30–50 eggs each year according to breed, mostly in spring.
Geese are, however, the most rapid growing, have the longest commercial life and are the hardiest of all domesticated poultry.
Geese are good foragers, reaching a marketable weight with little supplementary feeding, although food supplements are required to improve meat quality.
The main demand for goose meat is for festive occasions, and this is likely to continue to be the case. Restaurants and hotels would no doubt offer goose if they could be assured of supply and quality.
In addition to their value as food, geese produce down and feathers, which are in constant demand for quilts and cushions.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2009, 05:53:32 AM by mikey » Logged
mikey
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« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2009, 05:55:22 AM »

Goose breeds and breeding
Breeds of geese
Breeding
Breeds of geese
Table 1 gives the average weight of adult geese for certain breeds:

Table 1. Average weight of adult geese

Breed Gander (kg) Goose (kg)
Toulouse 12.0 9.0
Emden 12.0 9.0
Chinese   6.0 5.5
Sebastopol   5.5 5.0

Toulouse
Toulouse is one of the heavy breeds that originated in France. Some strains are non-broody, and, of the heavy breeds, the Toulouse is only a fair layer (up to 35 eggs per season).

Goslings tend to grow slowly and have to be kept to a slightly older age than other breeds before being ready for market. Because of their size they are not good foragers but do well in confinement. The flesh is coarser than that of the Emden, and the proportion of bone and offal is high. The progeny of a Toulouse goose crossed with an Emden gander grow rapidly and have good fleshing qualities.

Head: Strong and massive. The bill is strong and short, the eyes brown and the neck long and thick with plenty of gullet in the throat.
Body: Long, broad and deep with a very prominent breastbone. The back curves slightly from neck to tail and the carriage is horizontal.
Colour: Bill, legs and feet are orange. The plumage varies through different shades of grey, with each feather laced with a white edging. The stern, paunch and tail are white.
Emden
 
Emden geese The Emden (sometimes spelt Embden) is a heavy breed that originates from Hanover in Germany. It is a prolific breeder and has a quiet disposition. Currently it is the most popular breed in New South Wales.

The breed is most suitable for crossing with other breeds. Emdens are reasonably good egg producers (up to 40 eggs per season); they are good sitters, early maturing and good foragers. Because feathers from Emdens are white, they are of greater value than feathers from other geese. Goslings can be sexed at day old with a reasonable degree of accuracy, as females have a darker down than males. After a few days, however, there is no difference in feather colour.

Head: Long and straight. The bill is short and stout at the base, the eyes bold and light blue and the neck long and swan-like.
Body: Broad, thick and well rounded. The breast is round and the back long and straight. Legs are fairly short but strong, and the carriage upright.
Colour: Bill, legs and feet are bright orange, and the hard, tight plumage is pure glossy white.
Chinese
 
Brown Chinese geese 
White Chinese geese
There are two colour varieties of this breed: the White Chinese and the Brown Chinese. Both originated in China and are smaller than the Toulouse or Emden. The Chinese is distinguishable from other geese by the knob or protuberance on its head.

Chinese geese go broody and are the better layers, laying as many as 50 eggs in a season. Because of this they are ideal for crossing with other breeds.

Chinese and Emden crosses produce desirable goslings of white fleshing qualities more economically than do the pure breeds. The Chinese is the most suitable ‘watchdog’ breed.

Head: Rather large with a knob at the base of the upper bill.
Body: No particular distinguishing features except it is smaller than the Toulouse and Emden.
Colour of the brown variety: Brown bill and eyes, orange legs. Body feathers are brown and lighter on the underside of the bird.
Colour of the white variety: Bright orange bill and legs, brown eyes and pure white body feathers.
 
African goose breed Roman or German
The Roman, a nondescript breed, originated in Europe from the Toulouse and Emden. It resembles the Emden, and is the oldest of all European breeds.

African
The African breed is a variety of the Chinese, slightly larger because of the infusion of Toulouse, giving the breed a dewlap. The breed possibly originated in India, and is not as good an egg producer as the Chinese.

Sebastopol
The Sebastopol is basically a fancy breed. It has long, curved white feathers on the back with short, white, curled feathers on the lower part of the body.

Breeding
Selection
Geese are kept mainly for meat production, so breeding stock are selected primarily on their expected genetic ability to produce quick-growing, early-maturing goslings with compact meaty bodies.

To avoid poor fertility, breeders should not be overfat or oversized. Select only healthy, vigorous stock from birds at normal marketing age and body weight.

Records are immensely valuable when selecting for egg production; they show which geese should be culled from the flock. Table 2 is a guide to expected egg production from the common commercial breeds of geese:

Table 2. Expected egg production

Breed Annual average egg production
Toulouse 35
Emden 40
Chinese 50

Breeders must be at least 1 year old before mating. Some farm managers do not mate geese until they are 2 years of age, losing a full year’s crop of goslings. Geese can be kept for breeding until they are 10 years of age, but ganders should be culled when they reach 6 years of age.

The length of time breeders are kept depends on their performance. It may be necessary to replace birds after only four breeding seasons.

Mating
The number of geese to one gander varies; generally the more geese per gander the better, provided fertility and hatchability are not affected.

With the heavier breeds, use one gander to three geese.
With the Chinese breed, use one gander to about five geese.
Geese prefer to mate on water. Whilst it is not essential to provide geese with swimming facilities, fertility in the heavy breeds is at its best if water deep enough to swim in is provided. Swimming water is only necessary in the breeding season. It improves the condition of geese generally and helps to keep them clean, which in turn helps to keep eggs clean.

Geese should be mated at least 1 month before the breeding season starts. Geese are selective in choosing their mates and, once successful matings have been established, will remain together for life. If the birds are allowed to select their mates, it is best to put more than the required number in a pen until the selections have been made. In the event of having to change mates, run the separated birds as far from each other as possible to prevent the birds fretting.

Geese are occasionally difficult to mate. Sometimes a gander will not mate with one or two of the females, which means fertility and hatchability will be lowered.

If the gander shows equal attention to all his mates then he is probably mating with them all. To test if the matings are successful, remove females from the gander one at a time to test his reaction. If he is contented and not concerned, then chances are he is not mating with that particular goose. If, however, the gander appears agitated then he is probably mating with her.

Where it is desired to force-mate geese, remove the gander from his females and add the new females to the ones he is already mating with, to enable all females to first accept each other. After a few days, reintroduce the gander to his mates.

Where flock matings are practised, ganders may fight, but no serious damage will occur provided they are evenly matched. Bullies and any birds continually subjected to bullying should be removed from the flock — so too should geese that wander around on their own, as their eggs will be infertile. There will be less fighting if ganders selected for breeding have been reared together.

One-year-old ganders will usually mate half the number of times with their mates than will 2-year-old birds. The fecundity (capability of producing abundant offspring) will generally increase with the age of the ganders until they are about 5 years old.

Artificial insemination (AI)
Because the heavy goose breeds will successfully mate with no more than three females, and geese are naturally only seasonal breeders, the cost of maintaining a flock can be expensive when breeders consume a large amount of feed.

Overseas, AI techniques are now being used successfully. Whilst AI requires additional work, it does mean that fewer ganders are needed in a flock, and semen and fertility can be easily evaluated.

Females lay fertile eggs 3 days after insemination and will continue to lay fertile eggs up until 10 days after insemination.
Females are inseminated every 6 days.
Semen is collected from ganders every 3 days.
The semen collected from one gander is sufficient for use on 12 females.
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« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2009, 05:57:14 AM »

Disease control for geese
Geese are extremely hardy, and severe outbreaks of disease are unusual. It should be possible to rear goslings to marketing age with a death rate of less than 2%. If no disease occurs and good management practices are carried out, there should be no mortality in the flock.

The following are some of the more common diseases likely to affect geese:

coccidiosis
botulism
fowl cholera
coryza
white eye
paratyphoid
spirochaetosis
sinusitis
nutritional deficiency diseases.
Geese can also be prone to worm infestation. For information on these diseases, consult Poultry health and disease, or your veterinary practitioner
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« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2009, 05:57:58 AM »

Handling geese, and using geese as 'watchdogs' and for weed control
Catching and handling geese
Geese as ‘watchdogs’
Geese for weed control
Catching and handling geese
Always catch geese by the neck and never by the legs, as the legs are weak and easily injured or broken. To hold or carry a goose:

 
A catching hook made from 8-gauge wire
(diagram not to scale) Catch it by the neck, either with your hand or with a catching hook (see diagram at right).
Pull the bird close to your body. Reach down with your other arm and wrap it around the bird’s body, holding the wings in place and grasping both legs with one finger between the legs.
Lift the bird onto your arm and hand to the side of your body, so the head and neck protrude from under your arm.
Geese as ‘watchdogs’
 
 
 
The characteristic reactions of alarmed geese Geese become excited and noisy if confronted by intruders or strange sounds. They respond by making a hissing sound, and for this reason make good ‘watchdogs’. The Chinese breed has been the most widely used for this purpose, though all breeds are suitable to some extent.

Geese for weed control
Because geese will eat weeds without harming certain cultivated crops, they can be used for weed control. It is not known why geese do not eat certain crops. Geese can be used for weed control in crops such as corn, cotton, ornamental plants, strawberries and sugarbeet, as well as in orchards and vineyards.

Geese of any age can be used for weed control. Provide birds with adequate shade and drinking water and a little prepared feed in the evening. Allow 7–15 geese/ha, and move them according to weed growth and stage of the crop.
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« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2009, 05:59:23 AM »

Egg production, incubation and sex identification of geese
Goose egg production
Incubation
Sex identification of geese
Goose egg production
The main egg-laying period for geese is in the spring, commencing about August or September. Chinese breeds can start laying in winter. Encourage early seasonal egg production, so goslings are of marketable age and weight in time for the Christmas market.

Fertility will be up to 15% higher and hatchability up to 20% higher with mature female geese than with 1-year-old geese.
As geese usually lay in the morning, collect eggs late in the morning to reduce the chance of egg breakages, and collect eggs at least four times a day.
Because most eggs are laid early in the morning, it is best not to give geese access to swimming facilities until later in the morning, otherwise eggs may be lost. As mentioned earlier, swimming improves the condition of geese generally and helps to keep them clean, which in turn helps to keep eggs clean.
Geese usually lay a clutch of 12–15 eggs and then go broody.
Early onset of egg production can be encouraged by the following:

Genetic selection and cross-breeding. Chinese breeds are better egg producers than Toulouse or Emden breeds, but their smaller body is a disadvantage. Cross-breeding the Chinese breed with either Toulouse or Emden produces breeding stock of acceptable egg production and carcase.
Use of artificial light. This will induce early onset of egg production, as it does in laying hens (see Primefact 604 – Lighting of poultry).
Improved nutrition. Put geese in broody coops as soon as they go broody. If geese are allowed to remain broody without being checked, egg production will be seriously affected.
 
A suitable nest box To reduce the incidence of egg breakages, provide nest boxes (shown at right) and encourage their use for laying. Line them with suitable nesting material, such as shavings or straw, and allow one 50 cm × 50 cm nest box for every three geese in the flock. It is best to have nest boxes in the shed and throughout the yard if large yards are used.

Incubation
Natural incubation produces the best percentage of goslings hatched. Using geese to hatch out their own goslings is expensive and wasteful, since geese are not laying while they are sitting on the eggs. Turkeys, hens and Muscovy ducks may be used satisfactorily to hatch out goslings — best results will be obtained from Muscovy ducks (which are really geese). Goose eggs can be hatched artificially, but results are better if Muscovies are used.

Eggs should be collected at least twice (preferably four times) daily, and, as geese lay most of their eggs in the morning, the bulk of the eggs will be collected in the morning.
Eggs for incubation should be stored in a cool room at 15°C — an airconditioned or refrigerated cabinet is ideal. Turn eggs daily (see Table 1). The longer the eggs are kept over 7 days, the poorer the hatching results.
Select only uncracked eggs weighing at least 140 g and no more than 200 g. Clean those eggs that are dirty by lightly rubbing with steel wool and wiping with a clean damp cloth. Eggs will need to be handled and stored in this manner regardless of the method of incubation.
Eggs can be disinfected by fumigating them immediately after collection.
The actual period of incubation of goose eggs varies slightly with the breed. Some eggs from the lighter breeds may start pipping after 28 days, while eggs from the larger breeds may take 35 days. It may take up to 3 days for hatching to be completed.
Natural incubation
Depending on the size of the bird, 4–6 eggs may be placed under a broody hen whilst a Muscovy duck may sit on 6–8 eggs. Since the eggs are too large for most hens to turn by themselves, turn the eggs by hand daily when the hens leave the nest to eat and drink. After 15 days, eggs should be sprinkled with lukewarm water each time they are turned.

Candling, that is, passing eggs under a bright electric light to view the contents, can be carried out on the 10th day and all infertile eggs removed.

Where a goose is to be used for hatching out the eggs, 10–15 eggs may be placed under her (the number of eggs depends on the size of the eggs and the size of the goose). If geese have access to swimming facilities, the eggs need not be sprinkled with water.

Artificial incubation
Unless machines are properly managed, goose eggs do not hatch very well in artificial incubators. Hatches often are no better than 40% of the eggs set, even though fertility is about 90%. This is because of poor management and because incubators available in Australia are not manufactured specifically for geese.

With forced-draught machines, maintain a constant temperature of 37.5°C throughout the incubation period. The desired humidity will be obtained if the wet bulb thermometer is kept at a reading of 32.2°C to the 29th day. Then increase it to 34°C for the rest of the incubation time, using moisture trays and adjusting the ventilation.

Incubators with a slow air movement over the eggs will hatch goose eggs better than those with a fast air movement. Slow air movement ensures complete distribution of air over all parts of the egg to maintain uniform and equal evaporation.

Experiments in France, using 2000 eggs in eighteen incubators, have substantiated the need to place eggs horizontally (see Table 1).

Table 1. Results of setting eggs at different angles*

  Hatchability
  Eggs set on pointed end Eggs set horizontally
  Turnover angle Turnover angle
  90° 120° 90° 120° 180°
All eggs set 49.0% 66.6% 69.2% 69.8% 69.2%
Fertile eggs 64.0% 85.3% 86.2% 88.9% 89.4%

* Artigueres Research Centre, France

In the incubator:

 
Turn eggs through an angle of 180°,
and set eggs horizontally Best results are obtained if eggs are turned over completely at least four times daily, that is, through an angle of 180° (as shown in the diagram at right) and not 90° as with chicken eggs. Best hatching results are obtained if eggs are set horizontally.
Eggs must be spaced evenly throughout the incubator if the machine is not full. The temperature of the machine should be 0.2°C higher when the machine is less than 60% full.
Because goose eggs require high humidity, they should be sprinkled daily with warm water. After the 15th day of incubation, eggs should be completely submerged every second day in water kept at a temperature of 37.5°C and then daily in the last week of incubation, for 1 minute. Alternatively, fine nozzles that spray water at 37.5°C when needed can be installed in the incubator.
In the hatcher:

Eggs should be transferred to the hatcher on the 27th day of incubation unless experience shows eggs are hatching at less than 30 days of age.
Eggs should be dipped or sprinkled with water, as previously described, only once after they are transferred.
Temperature in the hatching compartment should be kept at 37°C and relative humidity at about 80%. After the peak of the hatch, reduce to 36.5°C and 70% humidity.
Leave goslings in the hatcher for 2–4 hours after the hatch is completed, then transfer them to the brooders.
Cleaning the incubator
Thoroughly clean and sanitise all incubator trays and incubators when not in use. Fumigate incubators with formaldehyde gas which is produced by combining formalin with potassium permanganate (Condy’s crystals). Note: A respiration mask fitted with a suitable gas cartridge filter should be used in the presence of formaldehyde.

To fumigate the incubator:

Turn off the motor.
Place the required amount of potassium permanganate in an earthenware container on the floor of the incubator and pour over it the required amount of formalin (25 g of potassium permanganate and 35 mL of formalin (40%) are enough to fumigate 1.0 m3 of incubator space).
Allow the machine to run for at least 10 minutes at the normal operating temperature and maximum humidity with the incubator door closed.
To prevent operators being overcome by formaldehyde fumes, open the doors and windows of the incubator room to provide ventilation before opening the incubators.
Sex identification of geese
The sex of day-old goslings can be identified in a similar manner to that used for chickens, by examining the vent. Sexing of day-olds is best left to a qualified chicken sexer, as an inexperienced person may damage the sexual organs.

With experience, day-old goslings can be identified by holding the legs firmly between the first and second fingers of the left hand, with the neck between the third and fourth fingers and the breast away from you. Then press gently with the left thumb on the abdomen while at the same time pressing down on the tail with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand. Do this quickly to remove the contents of the bowel, making examination easier. The vent is then everted by pressing gently down on the abdomen with the thumb of the left hand near the vent. Simultaneously place the first finger and thumb of the right hand close together on the opposite side of the vent and slowly separate with a gentle but firm pressing motion, stretching and everting the cloaca to expose the penis if the gosling is male.

Mature birds (that is, birds over the age of 7 months) can be identified by physical examination. The identification is made easier if two people are available. One method of exposing the penis is by pushing back the tail towards the head with one hand and exerting a steady downward pressure on the abdomen with the other. The vent will then be everted and the organ exposed. The penis, spiral shaped and white, is just over 1 cm long in immature birds but up to 4 cm long in mature ganders. The colour of the area inside the gander’s vent is pink and the surface is smooth. The illustrations of the exposed reproductive organs of an immature male, a mature male and a maturing female will assist in sex identification:

 
The exposed reproductive organs of an
immature male goose 
The exposed reproductive organs of a
mature male goose 
The exposed reproductive organs of a
maturing female goose
It is difficult to distinguish the sex of growing goslings and mature birds other than by examining for the presence of the male’s penis. The characteristics listed in Table 2 may also help you to distinguish sexes:

Table 2. Characteristics of the gander and goose

Gander Goose
A high shrill voice
Slightly larger body
Slightly longer neck
Larger head
Knob at base of top beak in Chinese geese
Moves to outside when flock is approached
 A harsh, hoarse cry
Soft abdomen and wide pelvic bones in laying geese
 

Mark birds according to their sex using leg bands, web punching, or wing bands.
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« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2009, 06:00:25 AM »

Brooding and rearing goslings
Hatching
Using a brooder
The brooder house
Encourage grazing
Wet conditions
Feeding goslings
Hatching
If only small numbers of goslings are to be raised, they are usually hatched out by Muscovy ducks or a broody hen. It is preferable to leave the goslings in the care of the bird that hatched them out. This avoids the need to use artificial heat. A hen can care for up to six goslings. The hen or duck should be confined to a coop within a well-grassed yard for 10 days. Goslings should be kept warm and well fed, and should not be overcrowded.

Using a brooder
Goslings can be reared satisfactorily under all types of brooders. Initially they need less heat than chickens, and they can be weaned earlier. The same principles for brooding chickens apply to brooding goslings. In the first week, set the temperature of the brooder at about 30°C, then reduce it gradually by 3–4°C per week over the next 2–3 weeks. The temperature reduction and the brooding period will be determined by prevailing conditions. Best results are obtained if goslings are brooded in lots of no more than 100.

The number of goslings that can be brooded under a brooder is about one-third of the stated chicken capacity of the brooder.

The brooder house
Brooder houses must be clean and dry. If using coops, move them daily to fresh ground.  Table 1 is a guide to stocking density for goslings housed intensively:

Table 1. Stocking guide for intensive housing

Age Number of goslings per square metre of floor space
1–2 weeks 10.0
3–4 weeks 5.0
5–6 weeks 2.5
Adult birds 1.0

Encourage grazing
Encourage goslings to graze after they are 3 days old. A well-grassed area of 40 m2 is sufficient for 100 goslings during the brooding period. Plenty of shade and an adequate supply of good, clean, drinking water is essential in the brooding period.

Wet conditions
As goslings cannot tolerate wet conditions until they are partly feathered, do not give them access to swimming facilities until they are at least 2 weeks old.


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« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2009, 06:01:22 AM »

Feeding geese
Minimum nutritional requirements of geese
Feeding goslings
Restricted feeding program
Feed conversion
Growth promotants
Feeding breeders
Grazing pasture
Minimum nutritional requirements of geese
Table 1 gives the minimum nutritional requirements of geese. Table 2 and Table 4 give suggested rations for goslings and breeding stock.

Table 1. Minimum basic nutritional requirements of geese

Nutrient Grower Breeder
Protein, starter 20% 16%
Protein, finisher 16% –
Energy 11 100 kJ/kg 10 500 kJ/kg
Fibre 4% 5%
Fat 5% 4%
Calcium 1% 3%
Methionine 0.30% 0.25%
Phosphorus 0.60% 0.50%
Vitamin A, as retinyl (acetate) 3100 mg/kg 41 300 mg/kg
Vitamin D3 300 mg/kg 65 mg/kg
Riboflavin 10 mg/kg 10 mg/kg
Calcium pantothenate 15 mg/kg 20 mg/kg
Niacin 55 mg/kg 55 mg/kg
Manganese 60 mg/kg 40 mg/kg

Feeding goslings
Goslings are often fed a similar ration to ducks, but because goslings show a rapid weight gain during the first 4 weeks, they need more protein. The heavy breeds of geese weigh approximately 85–100 g at day-old and may weigh up to 1.6 kg at 4 weeks of age.

Provided there is plenty of green feed, goslings can begin to graze at just a few weeks of age.

The liveweight of geese will increase by up to 50% during their first 2 months of life.
Goslings grow more rapidly when housed and fed a completely prepared and well-balanced ration than when they graze. To 10 weeks of age, goslings reared in cages will weigh up to 20% more than floor-reared goslings. Day-old birth weight and rate of growth in the first month influence a gosling’s weight at 10 weeks.
A starter diet containing 20% protein is recommended for the first 4 weeks in conjunction with good grazing. After 4 weeks, feed goslings a finisher ration containing 16% protein.
Starter and finisher rations may be fed either wet or dry, in mash or pelleted form.
Table 2 gives suggested rations for goslings. (See the next section for information on feeding breeders.)

Table 2. Suggested rations for goslings (a vitamin and mineral premix should be added to these rations)

Ingredients Starter (%) Finisher (%)
Wheatmeal 34.75 40.75
Sorghum meal 20.00 30.00
Bran 10.00 6.00
Pollard 8.00 6.00
Coconut meal – –
Meatmeal 18.00 12.00
Lucerne meal 5.00 3.00
Milk powder 4.00 2.00
Ground limestone – –
Salt 0.25 0.25
Total 100.00 100.00

Restricted feeding program
Where good grazing is available, practise supplementary feed restriction when the finisher ration is fed. Allow 500 g feed per head per week for goslings between the ages of 4 and 8 weeks, then 1 kg feed per head per week to 12 weeks of age. At the end of the restricted feeding program, allow goslings an unrestricted ration to marketing.

The type of restricted feeding program adopted depends on many factors, including the required gosling weight for marketing, the amount of pasture available, the quality of the pasture and the time of year. Suggested programs for restricted feeding, together with a guide to expected body weights, are given in Table 3.

Table 3. An indication of expected performance from a restricted feeding program

Program Age (weeks) Bodyweight (kg)
Complete ad lib feeding to marketing. 10 >4.0
Full complete feeding to 4 weeks of age.
Pasture plus 130 g of complete feed to 12 weeks of age.
Full complete feeding to marketing. 15 5.0
Full complete feeding to 3 weeks of age.
Pasture only to 18 weeks of age.
Full complete feeding to marketing. 21 6.5

Feed conversion
Feed conversion is calculated by dividing feed consumption by the bird’s live bodyweight. In other words, it is the amount of feed eaten (in kilograms) required to produce 1 kg of meat (liveweight). For example, goslings fed without restriction on a balanced ration to marketing at 10 weeks will have a feed conversion of approximately 3:1. This means a total of 12 kg of feed will be consumed for a bodyweight gain of 4 kg. As goslings get older, feed conversion capability diminishes.

Growth promotants
The inclusion of growth promotants in a gosling’s diet will improve the rate of growth. However, since geese are sensitive to arsenicals, this additive must not be included in the ration.

Note: Force feeding for any purpose is unacceptable in Australia (see the Model Code of Practice for the Welfare of Animals No. 83 — Domestic Poultry (4th edition)).

Feeding breeders
Good grazing for all breeding stock is needed for up to 6 weeks before the breeding season. Then, up to and during the breeding season, feed geese a ration with about 16% protein. Rations for laying hens are suitable.

Breeding geese in full lay should be given about 200 g of prepared feed a day, depending on the amount of pasture or green feed available.

Table 4. Suggested rations for breeding stock (a vitamin and mineral premix should be added to these rations)

Ingredients Ration 1 (%) Ration 2 (%)
Wheatmeal 30.75 57.75
Sorghum meal 20.00 22.00
Bran 12.00 –
Pollard 12.00 –
Coconut meal 8.00 –
Meatmeal 10.00 13.00
Lucerne meal 5.00 5.00
Milk powder – –
Ground limestone 2.00 2.00
Salt 0.25 0.25
Total 100.00 100.00

Geese should have access to both soluble and insoluble grit at all times. Soluble grit is in the form of limestone chips (5 mm) or shell grit, whilst insoluble grit is usually supplied as blue metal or basalt chips screened to 5–6 mm.

Grazing pasture
Geese are more like grazing animals than any other type of poultry. Their beak and tongue are particularly well-equipped for grazing. The beak has sharp interlocking serrated edges designed to easily cut and divide grass and other plant tissue. The tongue at the tip is covered with hard, hair-like projections, pointing towards the throat, which quickly convey the pieces of grass and other vegetable material into the throat. This rough covering on the point of the tongue enables geese to bite off plants even closer to the ground than sheep can. Because of this, overstocking must be avoided as the ground will become bare.

Because geese have virtually no crop in which to hold feed, they tend to feed and graze frequently. In summer they may continue to graze and feed at night.

As stated, goslings can start grazing at just a few weeks of age. If pasture is good and plentiful then the amount of prepared food they are given can be reduced.

A system of rotational grazing should be practised to ensure geese have access to good pasture all the time. Where paddocks are fenced off and allowed to spell, the pasture will regrow quickly and the paddocks will be more hygienic. Overseas research has shown overall performance of breeding geese is greatly improved when they have access to good pasture.

If pasture for grazing is not available then breeders should be fed chopped green feed. Geese prefer to pick their own green feed and may reject cut grass unless it is fresh and very finely chopped.

Geese can be very selective in the pasture they eat and tend to pick out the more palatable pastures. They reject narrow-leaved tough grasses and select the more succulent clover and grasses.

The stocking density for geese on pasture will vary depending on the quality of the pasture and the age and size of the geese. But as a guide, growing geese can be stocked at a density of 50–100 birds/ha, and breeding geese at about 20 birds/ha.

During the non-breeding season, breeding geese only need access to pasture to fulfil their total feed requirements.
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« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2009, 06:02:27 AM »

Processing and marketing geese
Marketing ‘green geese’ at 10–13 weeks of age
Marketing geese at 6 months of age
Slaughtering
Plucking
Waxing to remove feathers
Evisceration
Dressing percentage
The processing of meat and meat products
Processing goose feathers for marketing
Marketing ‘green geese’ at 10–13 weeks of age
Where geese have been properly cared for and correctly fed, they will be ready for marketing as ‘green geese’ as early as 10 weeks of age, when they will weigh about 4.5 kg. Goslings not marketed as ‘green geese’ between the ages of 10 and 13 weeks will need to be kept until they are much older; otherwise, the pin feathers are very difficult to remove.

The rate of growth to 10 weeks is roughly 450 g weight gain each week. After geese reach the ‘green’ stage, the growth rate declines quite rapidly.

Marketing geese at 6 months of age
Geese permitted to graze until about 6 months of age should be fattened for approximately 3 weeks before marketing, on a ration similar to those previously described. The heavy breeds will then weigh about 8 kg liveweight.

Table 1 gives a guide to approximate expected liveweight gains of goslings to 16 weeks of age.

Table 1. Growth rate target

Age (weeks) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
Liveweight (kg) 0.3 0.7 0.9 1.6 1.9 2.6 3.2 3.7 4.1 4.5 4.7 5.2 5.4 5.8 5.9 6.3

Slaughtering
Before slaughtering, starve geese for 12–18 hours, giving them only water during this period. This facilitates bleeding and cleaning, and improves keeping qualities.

Geese should be killed humanely, and as quickly as possible. The most efficient way is to place the goose headfirst into a killing funnel and cut the jugular vein with a sharp knife. If the birds are difficult to manage, stun them by hitting them at the base of the skull before cutting their throats.

Plucking
Dry plucking
If feathers are to be sold, dry pluck the birds. Dry plucking, a fairly slow process, produces a carcase of good appearance. To avoid carcase damage, pull the feathers in the same direction as they lie.

See Processing goose feathers for marketing.

Wet plucking
By placing the carcases in hot water, feathers can be removed much more easily than by the dry method. Care must be taken not to spoil the carcase by having the water too hot or immersing the birds for too long. The water temperature should be about 60°C and the birds immersed for up to 2 minutes while the operator holds on to their legs. When the feathers can be easily removed by rubbing, it is time to take the carcase out of the water.

To speed up the wetting of feathers, an approved detergent may be added to the water. Pull the wing and tail feathers out first, then remove the body feathers by rubbing.

Feathers can also be removed by automatic de-feathering machines, which are quite suitable for plucking geese. Remove pin feathers with the aid of a dull knife.

Waxing to remove feathers
Feathers can be removed by waxing only, or preferably by combining this with the hot water method (see wet plucking). Waxing will remove downy feathers but not necessarily pin feathers.

The wax mixture should be heated to between 70°C and 85°C, depending on the age of the geese and the quality of the wax.
After most of the feathers are removed and the carcase drained for half an hour, immerse the carcase in a wax mixture for 10–30 seconds, moving it backwards and forwards in the wax. The aim is to ensure maximum adhesion of the wax to the carcase, without burning the carcase.
Following dipping, the carcase is hung up by the legs to drain.
To speed up the wax-hardening process, dip the birds in cold water for 30 seconds. Bend the neck back over the body to crack the wax, then peel off the wax and the remaining feathers.
The wax may be remelted, strained to remove feathers and used again.
Commercial blended waxes are available for this purpose.

Evisceration
Evisceration, if not carried out on an automatic chain system, is best done on a stainless steel table. Removal of the neck is optional.

After removing intestines, place birds in tanks of cool, fresh water and then on racks to drain away excess water.

If carcases are to be frozen, chill them first and then place them in a plastic (or clear shrinkable-type) bag.

Dressing percentage
A 10% loss in body weight occurs as a result of killing and plucking geese. A total loss of up to 30% may occur when the bird is completely eviscerated and the neck and feet are removed.

The processing of meat and meat products
Producers who plan to slaughter, process or transport their own goose meat products on a commercial basis must conform with the Food Regulation 2004 under the NSW Food Act 2003 (www.legislation.nsw.gov.au). The Act is administered by the NSW Food Authority — Contact Centre, phone 1300 552 406 or website www.foodauthority.nsw.gov.au. Poultry meat processors must comply with Australian Standard (AS 4465:2005) for the Construction of Premises and Hygienic Production of Poultry Meat for Human Consumption (FRSC Technical Report No.1).

Processing goose feathers for marketing
Goose feathers usually sell for a higher price than other feathers as they are superior to (larger and softer than) duck feathers and feathers from other waterfowl.

When performed by an experienced person, plucking live geese will not harm the birds. The number of times geese may be plucked each year will depend on their general care and management. The first plucking should be carried out at the end of the laying season, and successive pluckings performed when there is no blood in the quill of the feather. Remove only the soft feathers on the breast, back and abdomen. As a rule, do not pluck geese more than four times a year, and never in winter.

Ten well-grown goslings will yield about 1 kg of dry feathers.
The down, or underbody feathers of the goose, and the soft body feathers are the most valuable.
The quills are of little value.
Feathers from dry-plucked geese are more valuable because their quality is not damaged by scalding during processing. However, dry plucking is time-consuming and adds to processing costs.
Coarse feathers should be separated from the finer body feathers.
Wet feathers (see wet plucking) should be washed in lukewarm water to which has been added a detergent, plus a little borax and washing soda. Rinse the feathers and spread immediately, to prevent spoilage, in a 3 cm layer on raised wire netting and allow to dry either in the sun or in a warm well-ventilated building. It is best to shake and respread feathers daily until they are dry. If feathers are bagged wet, they will heat. If feathers are not to be dried, a preservative should be used to prevent spoilage. A suitable formula is as follows:

6 kg wet feathers
6 kg common salt
500 mL hydrochloric acid
130 L water

Mix thoroughly and let the feathers soak overnight in the solution.

After plucking, pack feathers loosely into unbleached calico bags and hang for 4 weeks, either in an airy room or preferably in the sun. To prevent compacting, shake up bags occasionally. To ensure complete drying and to prevent unpleasant odours, sprinkle the feathers with formalin before closing the bags.

Goose feathers are always in demand by manufacturers for bedding, eiderdowns, cushions, quilts, sleeping bags, pillows, upholstery, flyhooks and archery. In Europe, particularly France, white geese are killed and skinned. The large and very small feathers are then picked from the pelts, leaving only the very fine soft down. The skins are then dressed, tanned and dyed, and cut into powder puffs.

White feathers, such as those produced by the Emden breed, are the most profitable. Fifty geese will yield about 4.5 kg of feathers at each plucking.
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« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2009, 06:03:26 AM »

Composition of goose meat, preparing for cooking, and recipes
Composition of goose meat
Preparing a goose for cooking
Roasting
Recipes
Composition of goose meat
Goose meat has much more energy per kilogram than chicken meat, because it usually has twice as much fat in the total edible portion. Table 1 compares the average composition of goose meat and chicken.

Table 1. A comparison of the average composition of goose meat and chicken meat

Edible portion Species Water (%) Protein (%) Fat (%) Ash (%) Calories per 100 g
Including flesh, skin, giblets, fat Goose 51.0 16.4 31.5 0.9 349
Chicken 67.6 20.0 11.0 1.0 179
Flesh only Goose 68.3 22.3 7.1 1.1 153
Chicken 73.4 20.6 4.8 1.1 126

Preparing a goose for cooking
To draw a goose after plucking, remove the two oil glands at the base of the spine. Excise the vent and make a cross slit at this point. The entrails are covered in fat, and can easily be drawn by passing the hand between the lining of the body cavity and the fat.

Goose livers made into pâté de foie gras are regarded as a great delicacy and sell at high prices. Goose meat can be cured and smoked in the same way as chicken.

Before cooking the bird, remove the wishbone — or flatten the breastbone with a sharp blow — so that carving will be easier.

Roasting
Roasting with a well-prepared stuffing is the most popular cooking method. A young bird is preferable, but an older bird which is first poached carefully for 1½ hours can then be roasted satisfactorily. Poach in a well-flavoured stock which just covers the bird. Wine or lemon juice added to the stock greatly improves the flavour of goose. During poaching, the bird can be stuffed loosely with potatoes, apples or carrots. This stuffing is then removed and is replaced, before the roasting process, with a stuffing suitable for serving.

Goose meat is rich in its own fat, so it should not be brushed with any other fat before cooking. Prick the skin to allow fat to escape, and remember to keep pouring off fat as it accumulates in the dish. Geese do not need to be covered or wrapped when being roasted, but some cooks prefer to cover the breast with foil, removing it for the last 45 minutes of cooking.

Cooking time is about 45 minutes per kilogram for a young bird and 55 minutes per kilogram for an older bird, using a moderate oven. Basting with fat is not necessary, but basting with fruit juice or red wine adds a gourmet flavour. If a crisp bird is preferred, the skin can be rubbed with well-seasoned flour or a mixture of flour and fine breadcrumbs. The skin is good eating only when hot — it becomes very tough when cold.

Carving will be easier if the heat is turned off when cooking is complete and the bird is left in the oven for 10–15 minutes.

Recipes
Goose can be cooked in much the same way as other poultry — recipes for preparing and serving turkey are particularly suitable. Whether young or old, geese can be prepared in many delectable ways. Older birds are more suitable to the moister type of cooking and are excellent in ragouts, réchauffés and fricassees.

Herbs to complement the rich flavour of geese include basil, juniper, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon, thyme and bay leaves. The best garnishes for flavour and colour are celery, cumquats, lemons, oranges, limes, peaches, apricots and apples, and jellies such as cumquat, gooseberry and lime.

The average-sized goose of 4 kg will serve about eight people. This may appear to be a poor ratio, but the carcase is bulky, and a well-fed goose has a good deal of fat, which melts during cooking, giving the meat its characteristic taste and keeping it moist. (A gourmand of an earlier century said that a goose was too big for one and not enough for two!)

Recommended stuffings
Basic stuffing
3 cups fresh breadcrumbs
3 tablespoons minced onion
1 teaspoon mixed herbs
2 tablespoons melted butter and a little eggwhite to bind
salt and pepper
whole kernel corn, or rice (optional)
Sesame seed stuffing
2 cups cubed bread, lightly toasted or baked
3 tablespoons minced onion
2 tablespoons sesame seeds roasted in oven until lightly brown
4 tablespoons chopped celery
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
salt and pepper to taste
½ teaspoon sage
1 tablespoon melted butter
1 chicken bouillon cube dissolved in ¼ cup water
Combine ingredients. A little more water may be added, if required, to bind mixture — or an egg may be used if preferred.
Potato stuffing
2 cups hot mashed potato
1 cup breadcrumbs
½ cup finely chopped onion, shallots or chives
1 tablespoon sage
4 tablespoons melted butter
2 good pinches of nutmeg
salt and pepper
Mix ingredients in order given.

Raisin nut stuffing
2 cups dried breadcrumbs
1/3 cup melted butter
½ cup chopped seedless raisins
½ cup broken walnut pieces
½ teaspoon sage or oregano
salt and pepper
Mix ingredients lightly together.

Apple and prune stuffing
225 g stoned prunes, previously soaked for 30 minutes in cold tea
6 apples, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 onion chopped
½ teaspoon powdered ginger
1 dessertspoon sugar
2 chopped rashers of lean bacon
1 cup breadcrumbs
salt and pepper
Brown the apples, onion and bacon in butter. Add the other ingredients. Bind with water or egg.

Roast goose with sauerkraut
4 kg prepared goose
Stuffing:
1 large onion, chopped
1 tablespoon butter
2 tins sauerkraut
½ teaspoon caraway seeds (optional)
½ teaspoon pepper
¼ cup white wine
large potato, grated
breadcrumbs, if needed
Chop the onion and sauté in butter until lightly browned. Drain sauerkraut in colander, rinse under tap, and add to onion, with ½ teaspoon of caraway seeds (optional), ¼ teaspoon pepper and ¼ cup white wine. Bring to boiling point and add one large grated potato.

The stuffing should be dry and light. Add a few breadcrumbs if necessary. Stuff the cavity and prick the skin of the goose lightly. Place on rack in dish and roast in a moderately hot oven (190°C). Allow 20–25 minutes for each half kilogram, depending on the age of the bird.

Baste with the liquid which forms in the dish, but remove fat from the top as it forms.

To serve, remove stuffing to hot serving dish, then carve the goose and place pieces on top of stuffing. Add a border of creamed potatoes. After skimming the fat off the gravy, pour the gravy over the goose or serve it separately. Do not thicken it with flour.

Ragout of goose
This can be prepared from either uncooked or leftover cooked goose. Cooked meat should be cut into serving pieces; to use uncooked goose, cut required servings from bird. Simmer pieces until tender in a minimum of water to which has been added:

1 onion stuck with 2 or 3 cloves
a sprig each of parsley and thyme
1 bay leaf
6 whole peppercorns
a little salt.
Remove goose pieces to a heated casserole and keep hot. Strain the liquid, allow to cool slightly and skim off any fat.

Make a white sauce with ¼ cup melted butter and 2 tablespoons flour. Cook for 2 minutes (do not brown). Add 1½ cups of goose stock and allow to simmer for 5 minutes, stirring. Add sufficient white vinegar or lemon juice to give the sauce a slightly sour taste, and 1 dessertspoon of white sugar. Adjust flavour with salt and pepper. Pour sauce over goose. Sprinkle with parsley or chopped chives. Serve with potato crisps or dried crisp toast fingers.

Réchauffé of goose with citrus
Cut leftover goose into small serving pieces. Heat, without boiling, in chicken broth (2 bouillon cubes to 1 cup water). To serve six, add:

1 teaspoon grated orange rind
½ teaspoon grated lemon rind
3 tablespoons red currant jelly (or any other tart jelly)
½ cup seedless raisins which have been plumped by standing in orange juice
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and serve with glazed orange rings. Cut 1 centimetre slices of unpeeled orange. Drench with brown sugar. Place under griller until sugar bubbles and browns.
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